Susan Ellenton how it’s done
 
 
i usually begin ... ... with fine silver metal clay, which is made of finely-ground pure silver plus water and binders. Precious metal clays were developed by Mitsubishi in the 1990’s as a novel way to recycle precious metals. I use mainly the following techniques - layering metal clay slip on leaves and petals; pressing wet metal clay into 2-part silicone moulds that I make myself (some pieces are made from as many as five or six of these); hand-carving dry metal clay; and freehand wet lettering (up to eight layers per  letter). Prior to firing, I refine each piece through a combination of dry-wet-dry work.  I sinter the metal clay in a kiln (and occasionally with a torch or speedfire cone), controlling temperature changes to maximize hardness and strength, according to the latest research. Some of my designs involve multiple firings. Peridot, moonstone and garnet may be fired in place, others are added afterwards. I don’t use any lab-grown stones (such as cubic zirconium) in my jewelry. I particularly enjoy embellishing with 23.5 k gold using a high-temperature burnishing technique called keum-boo.  After firing, I braze (ie solder) findings in place. Findings are made of sterling silver for added strength. I also braze and hand-forge (ie hammer) hoops of sterling silver and gold. Tumbling the silver in stainless steel shot brings up the shine and adds strength through work-hardening. Next I develop patinas using various liver of sulphur solutions. This is followed with a thin layering of beeswax to protect the patina. I occasionally scratch-brush for a softer shine, and usually finish with selective hand-burnishing to achieve a nice ‘feel’ and flashy highlights. Finally, I hand-wrap connections of sterling silver wire and sometimes I incorporate fine chain, which I purchase by the foot in sterling silver and 14k goldfill. When a clasp is needed, I generally design and make my own in keeping with the overall design. I string necklaces with high-grade multi-strand stainless steel fine cabling (Softflex, Accuflex or Beadalon) plated with sterling or 14 k gold.  In all my work, I seek to have each mark be as lovely as can be, generally avoiding any approach that might result in a ‘machined’ appearance. I vary my designs so that no two pieces are the same. It pleases me to begin each leaf and petal with new, fresh or dried plant material that I find or grow myself.  All beach materials come from my personal collection, mostly from Vancouver Island but also from New Zealand, the Cook Islands and Hawaii.  Stardust Jewelry - Inspired by Nature Handmade by Susan Ellenton in Victoria BC
 
email Susan: susan@susanellenton.com
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