How It's Done

my newest work

... involves experimental techniques: Look for novel extruded forms, yeast-grown textures, and experimental patinas!

In general, I usually begin with fine silver metal clay, which is made of finely-ground pure silver plus water and binders. Precious metal clays were developed by Mitsubishi in the 1990’s as a novel way to recycle precious metals.

I sinter the metal clay in a kiln or with a torch, controlling temperature changes to maximize hardness and strength, according to the latest research. Some of my designs involve multiple firings. Peridot, sapphire, moonstone and garnet may be fired in place, others are added afterwards. I don’t use any lab-grown stones (such as cubic zirconium) in my jewelry. I particularly enjoy embellishing with 23.5 k gold using a high-temperature burnishing technique called keum-boo.

After firing, I braze (i.e. hard solder) findings in place. Findings are made of sterling silver for added strength. Tumbling the silver in stainless steel shot brings up the shine and adds strength through work-hardening. Next I develop patinas with a combination of heat and household chemicals. I usually finish with selective hand-burnishing to achieve a nice ‘feel’ and flashy highlights.

When a clasp is needed, I generally design and make my own in keeping with the overall design. I string necklaces with high-grade19-strand stainless steel fine cabling (Softflex or Beadalon) plated with silver or 24 k gold. All my hoops are hand forged, usually made of Argentium Sterling Silver for its superior fusing, strength and lasting shine.

In all my work, I tend to avoid any approach that might result in a ‘machined’ appearance. I vary my designs so that no two pieces are the same.

email Susan: susan@susanellenton.com

How It’s done

collections Classes Custom about

Susan Ellenton
Artisan jewelry